I couldn't help but wonder...
When did sustainability get so good at lying to us?
Everywhere I look, there’s another “sustainable capsule collection,” another “planet-first pledge,” another brand finallydiscovering deadstock — like they just invented recycling. But behind all the recycled polyester press releases and beach clean-up collabs, you have to ask: what do these words really mean anymore?
And more importantly: are buyers — the gatekeepers of what hits the shop floor — still buying the spin?
Let’s talk about what’s really going on.
“Eco” Isn’t a Strategy, It’s a Search Term
Let’s start with the obvious: sustainability sells. In 2024, UK consumers spent over £60 billion on ethical goods — a figure that’s doubled in the last decade. Everyone wants a piece of the green pie, but very few want to pay for the ingredients.
Buyers are under pressure too. With rising expectations around ESG (Environmental, Social and Governance) targets and quarterly KPIs, there’s now a very real temptation to buy aesthetics over actual impact. If it looks recycled, talks community, and smells faintly of patchouli — it’s in.
But let’s be honest — recycled PET bottles turned into activewear isn’t the radical solution we’re pretending it is. It’s better than nothing, sure, but better isn’t the same as good. Especially when that bottle was never meant to be worn, and definitely not meant to be washed 200 times in microfibre-shedding machines.
The Label vs. The Legacy
This is where things get sticky.
What we call sustainable has become a checklist. Organic cotton? ✔️
Low-impact dye? ✔️
Locally made (in Europe)? ✔️
Some kind of charity partnership with vague metrics? ✔️✔️
But what’s missing is the deeper stuff:
-
Who made it, and under what conditions?
-
How long will it last?
-
Can it be repaired, reimagined, reused?
-
Does it actually address the brand’s core supply chain?
Most of the truly circular, ethics-first brands I know (and shout out to the real ones — you know who you are) don’t shout the loudest. Why? Because they’re busy doing the work, not spending the budget on green-lit campaigns and TikTok influencers posing with compost bins.
What Buyers Should Actually Be Asking
So if you’re a buyer, merchandiser, or brand decision-maker reading this — let’s talk straight. I’m not here to wag fingers. I get it. I’ve been in those meetings where impact metrics are tickboxes and brand “authenticity” is a slide on a deck.
But what if we stopped asking, “Does this look sustainable?”
And started asking, “Does this change anything?”
Here are a few questions to add to your next brand review call:
-
What happens to your stock that doesn’t sell?
-
What’s your relationship with your factory like? (And yes, I want names, not just regions.)
-
Can your garments be returned, repaired, or reworked?
-
How do you define success beyond margin?
And for the love of all things biodegradable — can we please stop calling it “green” if it’s just beige?
Brands + Buyers = The Real Power Couple
Here’s the twist. Buyers aren’t the problem — they’re the missing key. You decide what gets platformed. You control what ends up in front of customers. You can push the narrative from profit-first to planet-aware.
But to do that, you’ve got to back brands who might not have the glossy budgets or celebrity-backed clout — yet. You’ve got to invest in pieces that tell stories, not just trends. And yes, that might mean slower sell-through rates or tighter margins… but guess what? It also means integrity, loyalty, and legacy.
From Greenwashing to Green Building
Sustainable fashion doesn’t need more slogans. It needs systems. And you, dear buyer, are at the centre of it.
So next time you’re curating a drop or finalising a list, ask yourself:
Am I just buying into a story — or helping write a better one?
SOURCES:
Ethical Consumer Markets Report 2024
Fashion for Good Circular Materials Library
Greenwash.com by Changing Markets Foundation
WRAP UK – Sustainable Textiles Action Plan (STAP) Reports