WHY THE BFC'S NEW CIRCULARITY SCHEME COULD ACTUALLY WORK

WHY THE BFC'S NEW CIRCULARITY SCHEME COULD ACTUALLY WORK

You probably missed it because almost everyone did but the British Fashion Council quietly announced they’re piloting a circularity scheme. No huge press tour, no glitzy event, just a subtle little side note tucked away in a sustainability roundtable update. Which, to be honest, made me pay even more attention. When fashion bodies don’t make noise, it’s usually when something actually interesting is happening.

From what I’ve been able to piece together, the BFC’s new scheme is aiming to test what circular fashion could look like on an infrastructure level, not just a design one. Think: access to textile sorting hubs, reverse logistics support, waste audits, and actual post-consumer collection points. Stuff that’s normally either exclusive to major brands or left entirely to individual designers to figure out on their own with £0.03 and vibes.

And here’s the exciting part, they’re trialling it with small brands first. Wild, I know. A rare reversal of the usual "trickle-down sustainability" we’ve come to expect from legacy organisations. Apparently, the logic is that smaller brands are often more agile and willing to test genuinely new models, whereas bigger houses want everything pre-validated and risk-free (which makes complete sense).

It’s part of a wider trend we’re seeing across Europe, post-EPR, post-DPP, post-greenwashing crackdown where fashion institutions are realising that if they don’t start building real systems, someone else will. That someone might be a startup, a non-profit, or a Gen Z designer on TikTok with 40K followers and a grudge against capitalism. Either way, they're scrambling to stay relevant.

Of course, it’s still early days. No public timeline, no open application process (yet), and we don’t know which brands are involved. My guess? A mix of innovation-friendly labels with sustainability hype, but still enough industry clout to make the BFC feel comfy. It's giving... curated democracy.

But if the scheme really is focused on scalable waste solutions, it could be a genuine game-changer. Especially for emerging creatives who’ve spent years patchworking their own micro-infrastructure, hiring vans for studio waste pickups, manually disassembling garments, or begging local brands or second-hand sellers for off cut donations. Circularity isn’t just about style, it’s about logistics. And that’s where most of us hit a wall.

The big question now is whether this turns into a proper, transparent program with funding, access, and actual impact measurement. Or whether it becomes another closed-door initiative that only brands with pre-existing BFC ties can access. Because let’s be honest: a pilot doesn’t mean much if only a handful of London-based brands even get the invite.

Im still cautiously optimistic as it feels like the right vibe but if we can keep the pressure on, ask the right questions, and demand that circularity doesn’t just mean “relaunching the same capsule wardrobe with new eco copy,” this could be the start of something genuinely useful. Infrastructure might not be sexy or exciting, but it’s exactly what the sustainable fashion space needs. Especially when you're building a brand with £12 in your bank account and enough second-hand jeans to fill a warehouse.

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