Mango wasn’t the only headline grabber this week, H&M Group has just followed in their footsteps and joined Circulose as a scaling partner too. Yesterday it was announced that H&M is signing a multi‑year deal to shift a significant chunk of their man‑made cellulosic fibre over to Circulose’s recycled alternative. That’s big news: Circulose (formerly Renewcell) is on a mission to turn cotton‑based textile waste back into premium fibres through their patented dissolving‑pulp process and H&M becoming a core partner means this is no experimental capsule, it’s an industrial strategy .
So what’s actually happening here? For the first time, a fast‑fashion giant is doubling down and integrating recycled textile‑to‑textile solutions at scale. H&M’s goal is to hit 100 percent recycled or sustainably sourced materials by 2030, and to do that they need tech like Circulose’s. Instead of one‑off prototypes, we’re talking sustained demand, enough to make running their Swedish factory viable again.
Why does this matter? Well, two reasons.
One: it proves chemical recycling of cotton isn’t just lab‑tech, it’s supply‑chain feasible.
Two: it challenges the belief that only high‑end or sustainable brands can innovate like this.
When absolute mainstream players commit, you know it’s less hype and more hard impact.
But is it smart? Absolutely. But only if it becomes the norm. Circulose’s first iteration, Renewcell, hit bankruptcy in 2024 due to fragile demand and high costs. Now under new ownership, with revamped licensing models and investor support, they’re pacing themselves: only restarting production when demand is locked in. That’s disciplined, rather than flashy. And that’s how we scale real sustainability.
Of course, it doesn’t fix everything. Chemical processing can be resource‑heavy, and mixing recycled fibres with synthetics still remains tricky. This doesn’t reduce the volume of garments H&M produces, it just reduces the virgin resource impact. But it’s still a huge shift. It means every recycled viscose dress cuts down water use, carbon output, and pressure on virgin forests.
And it sets a tone for other fast‑fashion players. If H&M and Mango are onboard, then brands without these partnerships may soon look outdated or even risk greenwashing scrutiny. That’s where UK creatives come in: this moment opens space for collaboration across scale. Small brands, patterns cutters, textile innovators, they can now pitch services that connect supply chains to circular fibre delivery. Designers who care about more than just aesthetics can be part of the loop.
We might see new roles emerge too. Circular Systems Designer, Traceability Strategist, Fibre Innovation Consultant, especially in the UK, where production hubs like Leeds, Manchester, and Glasgow are ripe for decentralisation. Imagine a future where the fabric you draft your collection in literally came from school uniforms, and every cut you make is traced by origin story.
We’ll also see product lines flagged for traceability, maybe with QR code tags like “This viscose was born in Sweden, regenerated from cotton.” Transparency isn’t optional anymore, it’s expected. We could even see DIY versions of this at university fashion labs, where students mix their own deadstock viscose with recycled Circulose pulp.
Should all fashion brands consider similar partner pilots? Yes, and not just fibre tech. Luxury needs supply‑chain geeks, activists, material engineers. High street needs chemists, logisticians, second‑hand infrastructure. The industry needs diverse thinkers, not just design grads. The future isn’t runway‑only, it’s systems‑shaped.
So while H&M’s Circulose deal isn’t a miracle cure, it doesn’t magically slow down overproduction, it’s a bold signpost. It signals that circularity is becoming a structure, not a subtitle. And that gives UK creatives a real shot to build ethical, traceable, and locally anchored models without being sidelined by hype.
Because when the giants start looping their own materials, it’s not just a trend, it’s turning the industry’s biggest ship. And that’s a ride worth joining.