You hear a lot of talk about circularity in fashion — glossy words like “regenerative,” “closed loop,” and “cradle to cradle” get thrown around like confetti. But what does it actually mean to make circularity work? Like, beyond the branding?
That’s exactly what the Tracking Progress: Operationalising Circularity session at the Global Fashion Summit tried to unpack. And honestly, it was one of the most revealing conversations of the week.
Held in Copenhagen — a city that’s basically become the poster child for sustainability done right — this wasn’t just another panel about feel-good fashion goals. It was about infrastructure. About data. About how we measure progress and not just vibes. Because if circular fashion is the future (spoiler: it is), then this is the unsexy but essential groundwork we have to get right.
Circularity Isn’t Optional — It’s Climate Survival
Let’s not sugar-coat it. The fashion industry contributes around 10% of global carbon emissions — more than aviation and shipping combined. And waste? Over 92 million tonnes of textile waste are generated globally each year. Circularity isn’t a nice-to-have; it’s a climate solution.
That’s why this session mattered. It dug into what circularity looks like when applied across the entire value chain — not just in niche capsules or marketing campaigns. From raw materials to post-consumer use, every touchpoint has to be redesigned to keep resources in use and out of landfills.
So, What Went Down?
Moderated by Christiane Dolva Törnberg, Head of Innovation at the H&M Foundation (yes, that H&M Foundation — and before you roll your eyes, their innovation lab is funding real systems research), the panel brought together:
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Krishna Manda, VP of Corporate Sustainability at Lenzing Group — the fibre tech giant behind TENCEL
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Thijs Maartens, VP of Global Sustainability at Tommy Hilfiger
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Diane Holdorf, EVP at WBCSD (World Business Council for Sustainable Development)
And the conversation? Surprisingly candid.
Diane dropped the fact that WBCSD has just launched sector-specific guidance for tracking circular performance in fashion — finally giving brands a shared language and benchmarks to work with. Because let’s face it: if you can’t measure it, you can’t fix it. And up until now, circularity metrics have been a bit of a wild west.
Why This Should Matter to You (Yes, You)
If you’re a young designer, emerging brand, or even just someone trying to make more conscious choices — this moment is a bit of a wake-up call. Circularity isn’t going to be this vague concept floating in moodboards forever. Regulations are coming. Consumer expectations are rising. Supply chains are being rewired.
By 2030, the EU will roll out the Digital Product Passport, which will require brands to disclose every step of their product lifecycle. No more greenwashing. No more hiding behind buzzwords. So if you’re building a fashion brand right now, thinking about systems is no longer optional. It’s smart strategy.
The Real Flex? Building with Circularity From Day One
The session made it clear: the brands that win the next era aren’t just the ones with viral aesthetics — they’re the ones doing the boring but brilliant systems work behind the scenes. Think: resale logistics, fibre traceability, repair incentives, recycled inputs at scale.
And this isn’t just for the Lenzings and Hilfigers of the world. Independent brands in the UK are already leading. Look at what Raeburn is doing with surplus materials, or how Greater Goods and Ahluwalia centre circular design in their collections.
Circularity isn’t a trend. It’s the blueprint. And sessions like this? They’re helping the industry finally get its act together — not just with statements, but with structure.